Coconut has its differences in sweetness and texture

TEST KITCHEN: The fruit comes in various forms, so be careful to choose the right one for you recipe

Grating your own coconut is a labor of love. So, you may as well do it right and buy coconut from a store with high turnover to ensure freshness. Asian groceries are one good source.

Flaked, shredded, sweetened (or not), frozen, fresh and dried. Who knew there were so many different kinds of coconut out there?

Coconut usually comes flaked or shredded, but the difference between them is almost imperceptible, making them essentially interchangeable for most recipes.

However, there is a big difference between sweetened and unsweetened dried coconut. Common brands of sweetened coconut, such as Baker's, are usually soaked in corn syrup for sweetness and additives to retain moisture and freshness. So not only will this coconut add sweetness to a recipe, it will add some moisture, too.Without those additives, unsweetened coconut is much drier. It's typically sold in bulk bins at natural foods stores. If you are using it as a substitute for sweetened coconut, you may need to soak it briefly to bring back some of its moisture. And you'll likely need to adjust the amount of sugar in the recipe.

Unsweetened coconut usually comes in flakes or shreds, though you can sometimes find larger "chips" -- those big flakes commonly found in trail mix.

Not all shredded or flaked coconut is dried. You can find frozen coconut at Uwajimaya and other Asian stores. Since coconut isn't inherently juicy, it freezes well -- the ice doesn't change the texture too much. The frozen coconut will lose a little water, which means it will be a little limp in texture and need to be drained. Otherwise, it's very similar to fresh.

As for fresh coconut, here's a trick you can try: Place the whole coconut in the freezer for about one hour. When you crack it open, the flesh should separate easily from the shell. To crack the coconut, hold it over a bowl (to catch the liquid inside) and whack it around the middle with the blunt side of a cleaver until it cracks.

A typical coconut will yield about three to four cups of grated or shredded coconut. If you like, use a vegetable peeler to remove the thin layer of brown skin on the coconut meat before shredding. While tools specific to coconut shredding are available at some Asian markets, you can just as easily shred the meat with a vegetable peeler, a cheese grater or food processor.

Keep in mind, however, that many whole coconuts have sat around for a while, so their meat won't always be more flavorful than processed coconut. Try to get your coconut from a store with high turnover, and give it a good shake -- you should hear lots of liquid sloshing around inside.

Linda Faus 503-221-8071; lindafaus@news.oregonian.com

Danielle Centoni 503-221-8591; daniellecentoni@news.oregonian.com

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